Speak to the dog, make eye contact but don't stare into the dog's eyes. Stay a few feet away and stand sideways rather than straight on. Shoving your fist in a dog's faceby way of introduction makes most dogs wonder if you may be a threat or at the very least, a ninny -the same goes for bending down and putting your face in the dog's face.
If the dog wants to be touched he'll move toward you. Pet him on the chest or under the chin. Don't pat the top of his head, it's rude. If the dog doesn't move toward you, take the hint that he doesn't want to be pawed by someone he just met. Individual dogs, like people, vary in how vivacious or shy they are upon making a new acquaintance.
Ask B.D.
Dear B.D,
What is the correct way for a human being to greet a dog upon their first meeting?
Signed, Always Wondered.
email your dog-related questions to B.D.
Dear B.D.,
Positive training methods emphasize using treats. When I'm out with my dog or even at obedience class, he doesn't respond to treats. What can I do?
Signed,
Pockets full of uneaten treats
Dear Pockets,
Training experts often fail to mention that not all dogs are food motivated. Some dogs are more socially motivated. Therefore, praise works better than treats for such dogs. Especially when a dog feels nervous or is timid, food is not attractive but you are. Be a leader. Show your dog that you are in charge and he is safe with you. He will look to you for reassuring guidance rather than be all worried about the surroundings. Find a word or phrase that makes him wag his tail. Use that to teach him/praise him. Something as simple as "good boy" in an cheerful voice usually works.
Dear B.D.,
Don't you think it's wrong to buy a dog when there are so many in shelters?
Signed, Do The Right Thing
Dear Righteous,
Just as wrong as having your own children when there are so many orphans in the world?
All sensible people stop and consider many variables before getting a dog. One option is to buy one. That decision is right for a lot of people.
Responsible breeders do it for the love of a particular breed with the goal of producing puppies that best exemplify that breed. When someone is looking to bring a dog into their home they consider what would be the best fit. When considering a purebred dog, because of known standards associated with each breed, one has a better guesstimate of what the dog will be like as an adult and how and if that dog will be well matched to the family. In such a case, the dog is more likely to remain with that family and not end up in a shelter. Of course there are many wonderful dogs in shelters that could be a loving addition to your home. Each individual must make the choice that is right for them and for the dog.
Many well meaning people "rescue" a dog than suffer the side effect of strident self-righteousness. Doing the "right" thing ought not include making others feel guilty or in awe of your altruism.
We ought to take a lesson from dogs. They tend to mind their own business and refrain from judging others.
Dear B.D.,
I have a new puppy. Everybody tells me to '"crate train" it. But it seems wrong to put a dog in a cage.
Signed, Empathizer
Dear Emp,
Dogs like to have a place of their own to retreat to and/or rest. The crate provides that. You want a safe, well-mannered and contented pet. It's only a cage if you never let the animal out of it.
Dear B.D.,
How do crate train a puppy?
Signed, Loyal Reader
Dear Loyal,
Glad you asked! First entice the puppy to enter the crate on his own. Toss a toy or treat into the open crate and let him walk in. Don't close the door on him, just let him explore and come out when he wants to. This sets up a positive association with the crate. Repeat this process and accompany it with a command such as "go to bed" or "crate". After he's gone in and out of the crate freely and happily a few times, close the door while he's in there. Do it briefly the first time. As long as he doesn't become agitated with the door closed you can close it on him for longer periods.
I know what you're thinking. Here in the real world there isn't always time to spend hours and days and weeks getting puppy used to the crate before you have to leave him alone. You do the best you can. This training outline is the idealized version. You still have to take a shower and go to work and live your life outside of easing puppy's way. So you put a toy -perhaps a kong stuffed with something delicious- and the pup in the crate and close the door. The puppy may cry. You now go in the shower where you can barely hear him. He's a baby. Pretty soon he'll fall asleep. An hour or two later release him from the crate and take him outside for potty training.
Dear B.D.,
What is the best dog food?
Signed, So many choices
Dear So many,
It is a dizzying array of choices. Here, printed with the permission of the Bad Dog Ranch Chef and Chief Dogwalker, Fall 2009 Newsletter, will get us started.
Indeed, the residents of BDR enjoy home cooking but getting there was a lengthy process . Before the home cooking, BDR dogs ate kibble mixed with canned dog food or some people food like eggs or cottage cheese. But due to concerns, like the tainted corn gluten deaths, various ingredients of questionable value, and specific issues of individual dogs, the chef did some research.
In addition to Dr Pitcarin's book, here are some other sources: Dr. Earl Mindell's Nutrition and Health for Dogs, Holistic Guide for a Healthy Dog by Wendy Volhard and Kerry Brown, D.V.M.and www.b-naturals.com/cooked-diet.
The matter of domestic canine nutrition is confusing at best, and infuriating at worst. Do dogs needs carbohydrates? Depends on who you ask. So, what we did at the BDR was start slow with diet changes and observe how the dogs did. From a starting point of 75% protein and 25% vegetable/grains the individual dogs offered feedback such as leaving stuff in the bowl or weight changes.
For example: Rose is a twelve year old terrier mix weighing about 33 pounds. All her life she has had periodic dullness in her coat, lots of tartar in her teeth, and otherwise healthy. The 75/25 ratio didn't suit Rose, she would leave meat in the bowl. Reduction of total portion made little difference. After trying different combos, eventually a portion size (2 cups total twice a day) of 50% protein, 50% vegetable/grain was settled on. Rose eats the entire meal, her weight is stable, she is an energetic gal AND her coat is consistently shiny.
Then there is Lois, a four year old Old English Sheepdog weighing about 68 pounds. Lois has a history of frequent diarrhea and bladder infections. The diet change for Lois, after tweaking, is roughly 70% protein, 30% vegetables/grain (2 1/2 cups total twice a day). Lois used to have diarrhea about every 2 or 3 weeks. Not anymore. Bladder infections? Not anymore.
The protein consists of beef, chicken, turkey, pork, liver, fish, eggs, cottage cheese, yogurt. Vegetables used are pretty much everything except onions and garlic. Grains used: barley, bulgur, couscous, brown rice, millet, oatmeal, quinoa, polenta. Lentils and beans are also on the menu, as are some fruits.
Can't help but think we're on to something here! The down side to this way of feeding is the additional work and expense. You will spend more time cooking and chopping and kibble is cheaper than people food. But then, especially in Lois's case, the veterinarian bills are greatly reduced.
Hope this information is helpful. Good luck and best wishes!
